Valencia

As I have said before Valencia is a city of apartments, and every road is lined with apartment blocks.  There are Victorian, Edwardian to contemporary architecture, many appalling from the 50 - 70s and others stylish and elegant, or brightly modern.  What there doesn't seem to be are houses anywhere in the centre, or if they were houses, they are now apartments.  The old town is a little different and there are a lot of old mansions that have been turned into flats.

I know that London has a lot of flats, but it is much more of a mixture.  Here it is obviously a completely different type of living for people and I would love to and hope to understand it better over time.

Today we ventured out of the old centre, across the Turia and into and outer barrio, that I don't know the name of.  We walked passed the Fine Art museum into it's gardens, which were huge, through the back and walked around for an hour or so. 

There are a lot of open spaces, which in such a dense area must be absolutely necessary, as there are few private gardens. 

                                                Very strange looking bird life around here.

I would like to understand whether until say the 60's Valencia was housed mainly in the old part and that the outer suburbs were built on spare land, or did they knock down swathes of smaller houses to make way for the blocks.  Did they have a mass migration from the countryside into the cities, or whether this happened after the civil war.

After the Republic was announced, Franco who was in Spanish Morocco brought an army over and attacked Madrid.  The current government then moved itself to Valencia, which afterwards fell as well.    So I presume there was war damage to the city.  There is a Valenciana Museum here which we will visit sometime, which should answer some of these questions.

Anyway, the reason for this ramble is that in the outer barrio we came across a few little streets tucked away that were lovely, quite unloved, and perhaps a view of the area before the blocks were built.  In some places they looked like people were starting to do them up.

This place was derelict, and the netting up to stop bits falling off.  What a shame for such a lovely building and I hope someone rescues it eventually.

The Turia was a wide river running around the outside of the old town until the 1950's when it seriously flooded the city and a lot of damage was done.  It was then decided to divert the river elsewhere and use the Turia for something else.  It was turned into the recreational heart of the city.

There are football, baseball and rugby pitches,  running tracks and outdoor gyms.  There are small lakes and glades of trees and formal gardens in certain areas.  If you go down after 5pm there are always loads of people walking their dogs, running, cycling and sitting in the sun.  It is a real breathing space in the city.

We haven't been there yet, but in parts there are formal gardens, and a sculpture park, and in places small cafes, unfortunately not open at this time of year.  I bet in the summer there are all sorts of events going on.  Last weekend there was a half marathon and mini marathon for childen.

It's the weekend again

After the awful weather the last couple of days we were feeling a little house bound and it was nice to wake up to dry skies, be it grey. 

It was market morning and we walked down to the central market to buy fish for dinner.  I could spend hours in this place just looking at all the produce, and what makes it even better is the way it is displayed and the gusto of the Spanish people for their food, all around you.  But you have to be patient.  Everything is done on Spanish time, people have a chat, make their mind up, change it, say hello to someone next to them, and together with a long list of wants, it can make it a long business.  But you just have to be patient. 

We ended up buying some skate wings for dinner, some herbs and cheese.

Now cheese.  We did a bit of research to get a list of cheeses and where they come from.  Spain doesn't seem to have a big range of cheese, like France or the UK, but we are determined to find some good ones.  Last week we had Manchego, very strong with whiff of the barnyard and a softish goats cheese.  They do lots of goats cheese.  Armed with our list we bought Tetilla from La Coruna, the pointy one really creamy, Roncal from Navarra, a like a mild Manchego and a blue, Queso de la Peral.  Thought this looked like a Dolcelati, but is much drier, yum.  This should last us all week.

Now in our supermarket they have a good selection of wines, and we have bought a few (only a few!) to have in the evening.  But the most expensive ones there are only about 5 Euros, and we have been drinking a very nice one at 3.89 Euros. I know mind blowing.  So last week we found a small wine and produce shop, only two minutes down from the flat. We ended up having a long conversation about wines with one of the owners, asking how much to you need to spend to get a better wine. 

The shop booked us on one of their wine tastings and on Saturday we walked all of a hundred yards to Vinotekia.  There was us,  a young Spanish couple, and 9 women on a hen day.  Hence to say it became apparent quite quickly that the hen party were not interested in a wine tasting, they just wanted a good yak, and carried on at 1000 decibels Spanish style ignoring the tasting.  So really there were only four of us tasting a White, Rose and two Reds, and all produced locally.  We bought a Rose and a Red, and can pop down the road any time for another.  They do regular wine tastings and we will be booking on them.  The wines cost us E6.50 and E8.00, again amazing.

Back to dinner and the skate wings.  We thought they were quite expensive and when we opened up the package we knew why.  We had bought tyranosaurus skate wings, they were huge, so we decided to share one and do them differently on Sunday. Rod poached them in wine and herbs.  Yum... couldn't get over how much there was.  On Sunday I fried them in garlic and oil, great as well.

Sunday morning was grey, so we thought we would do some culture and went tothe Casa-Museo Benlliure.  It is the sort of place you probably wouldn't choose if you were only here for a few days, but an absolute treasure.  The house of a family of painters, father, two sons and a grandson from about 1855 to 1937. The house has been kept as lived in, together with their studio and a lot of their paintings.  Thought it would be small and a bit boring, but ended up walking around for an hour and a half.

We had intended to go to a Live Viewing of Swan Lage at the local cinema today, but we arrived to find that we had been beaten there by 3000 Spanish Ladies, they are very scary.  We gave us trying to find the right queue to join, if in fact there was a queue, as it was chaos, we gave up and grumped away to console ourselves with a glass of beer and a tapa!

This lady sold little conas of ham and other meats.  The Spaniards snack constantly.

So to console our lack of ballet today we went back to El Duende in the evening for a spot of flamenco.  Brilliant and completely different from last week. 

We talked to a couple who live in Wimbledon, over for the weekend. Hope you enjoyed it and keep on travelling............

Sorry I have been rambling on a bit today.... hope you haven't fallen asleep

Street Art

Just some pictures for you all

This image is everywhere in the city.  I want to know what it means.  I can

guess a few things, but want to make sure.  I think it is a positive image

Well I suppose it had to happen sometime

We've had a quiet week just living, going to the market or supermarket, having coffee out, walking around the streets and getting to know Valencia more.  Tuesday morning we woke up to rain, yes really, here's the evidence.  The morning was dry and we walked to our Spanish lesson.  And then it started raining and then hail stoned for about half an hour, and then the sun came out, so that was okay.

Earlier in the week we went back to the Turia and walked further through the gardens than before had a look at the outside of the Belle Artes Museum. Might go there tomorrow if there is a break in the weather.  They have lots of paintings from Sorrolla, a very famous Spanish artist.  We saw some of his paintings in Madrid and Barcelona way back, so would like to see more... lovely stuff.

Me sitting in the sun

We had seen this narrow passage way just down the road from us, which leads down to a church doorway.  We had seen loads of people going down to it during the week, so we thought we would explore.  What a find!  The most beautiful church, most of it was built and decorated in the 15th century, but originally much earlier.  Absolutely stunning.  I usually don't like Spanish churches because they are rather brutal, dark and foreboding.  But this one was spectacular.  It's been going through loving restoration over the past few years... spectacular.

Today, well what can I say.  The weather report said it would rain and it certainly did, from when we woke up and it is still going  The sky is steel grey and we had to close the shutters as the wind is fierce they were banging around.  The rain hasn't stopped, and consisted of big splats of rain.  We walked to Spanish and got soaked, dried off, walked to the supermarket on the way home and got soaked, and by the time we reached home it was running past my ankles and had crept up my jeans to over my kness.  Hurrumph, a shitty day weather wise.  So we grabbed a bottle of wine, and we will be camping in for the night.   Enough about the weather.

For the Fashionistas - the drowned rat look

Well actually more about the weather, the downpours continue with thunder and lightening today again, we walked the market and back again with water to our ankles.  Back home and in the dry now, and we will not venture out again until it stops. 

Ending on some blue sky, not that we have any, but to remind us what will happen next week! I hope, no I'm sure......

I rather fancy one of those flats here, up top, with a balcony

Plaza del Reina and the Cathedral

The Basilica

El Weekend

Hi Everyone,  It's been a full on weekend.  On Friday night we found our Jazz Club called Jimmy Glass and only five minutes walk.  It is everything a jazz club should be, dark, crowded and a little tatty around the edges.  The trio of bass, double bass and guitar was really good, and even better as you don't pay an entrance fee, so if you want to leave after the first set, you can and not feel like you have to stay to the end.   We went back on Saturday night and the band, this time piano, bass and saxophone, they were even better.  They load one euro on every drink which I think is fair.  Me thinks we will become regulars.

The Valencianas just love dressing up here.  As we left the apartment to night a little parade of dressed up people danced by, followed by a small brass band.  The guys were swigging down some evil looking stuff, and all were enjoying themselves immensely.  Haven't got a clue what was going on, but it was lovely.  Will find out though.

Sorry about the picture, I only had time to get mobile out, so I don't know if it's me or the mobile that is crap.

The sales are on here so we went shopping, yes Rod went shopping, not for long and only to buy him a lightweight jacket..... sorry, it's been so warm, he only had a heavy lined jacket.

Horchata is a drink made from Tiger nuts and sweetened yum......

We walked for miles again today.

Sunday, it was on two new types of transport, the metro and tram down to the beach for a long walk and lunch.  It seems this is what people do on a Sunday.

When you first see it, it look likes seaweed on the sand, but it is dark volacanic rock.

It was time for our first paella of the trip.  We went back to Neptuno (we came here five years ago) and have decided that we will mark this paella and compare all others to it!  For the non fish eaters, sorry! but it was great.  A set menu of pan y tomates, Valencian salad, fried fish followed by Paella con Mariscos.  I was then given a pudding to die for,  Cabalgata Cake with chocolate sauce..... that means another 10,000 steps on my fitbit.

I don't know if there is a word for feeling Stuffed in Spanish, but we were very.  After leaving the restaurant we had to walk back via the Marina Real to walk it off.. The Marina was built about ten years ago to host the Americas Cup.

More People dressing up

Velas Y Vents Building - Americas Cup Building now used as exhibition/music space and restaurants

Very weird landscape

Bijou little property for sale in from of the quays.  A little renovation needed.

Again we walked for miles, and when we got back to the apartment, I immediately fell asleep for two hours, but felt much better afterwards.  My legs felt like someone was trying to unscrew them.

Sunday night we ventured back to the area we stayed in five years ago to a flamenco club that was underneath our apartment.  Thursday/Friday and Saturday the shows starts at 11pm which is still a little late for us, we will no doubt get used to socialising late, but not just yet.  On a Sunday it is 8pm, much better.  Fabulous singer, guitarist and male and female dancer.  They enjoyed themselves so much, it was obvious.

Think I might need to have a couple of days without walking 6 miles a day, my poor feet are suffering.

Hablo Espanol

We went to our first Spanish conversation class.  I was a bit worried about it, but was so surprised, we did really well.  Nattered away to Marie Angeles for an hour and half.  Our brains were completely fried afterwards, but it's just what we need.  Also Marie is a good teacher and quickly mastered our level and spoke clearly.  We are not allowed to speak in English which can be challenge.   So we've signed up for two sessions a week with her for next couple of weeks, and then we will see after that.

We've continued to do our mega walks around the city, exploring all the roads.  The trouble is, that you find a nice shop or restaurant, and then completely forget where it is, as you have been walking around in circles.  Oh dear, will have to go exploring again!

I have to say I am in love with this city.  It is full of really elegant, lovely buildings with iron balconies and streets of apartments.  It is all apartments, as are most Spanish cities  Some of them around the back or quite dilapidated, and it is sad to see these wonderful buildings in a bad state but  I think the economy is picking up again in Spain. There seems to  be lots of renovation going on.

Orange trees in the plaza

Cathedral sky

We've just lived to date. Going for a walk doing our shopping at the supermarket or Central Mercado in the mornings, coming back making lunch.  Playing around on the computer, going for another walk, sitting in a square in the sunshine, going for coffee and pastry in the afternoon.  For the past couple of nights we've had dinner at home and then going for a glass of wine down the street at 10pm.  Yes, people don't go out here until at least 10pm.

Blue Skies and Graffiti

Decided to do some washing today, and only afterwards discovered that we had washed the clothes with a dishwasher tab.... oh well, I suppose it will have got the foods stains off!

There is a lot of graffiti, shop and street art in Valencia, and it is wonderful.  I will be recording it detail while I am here.... love it.

Love it! A bollard cover.